Ice climbing in Virginia… what?! Not something you normally hear about. However, when a dome of arctic air settles over the mid-Atlantic, streams freeze and provide a small window of accessible ice climbing right here in the frozen east.
Although I am not an ice climber, I couldn’t turn down an invite to explore a frozen waterfall with a group of experienced climbers here in Virginia. What I learned was that even though ice climbing is rare in the Blue Ridge, every winter yields a few days of climbing sculpted ice features.
Our approach to the frozen falls was a three-mile hike through snowy mountains, settled amongst a majestic winter scene. The uphill trek to the 93-foot icefall would not have been possible without the burst of polar air that kept daytime temperatures under, or near freezing, for the past two weeks. For ice climbers who live here in the mid-Atlantic, these cold snaps are welcomed and something they wait for all year. These stretches of cold can come and go quickly in Virginia, creating a very small window of time for ice to be thick enough to climb. As you may have guessed, when that window opens, all other activities take a back seat to ice climbing for these enthusiasts. The ‘now or never’ mentality takes hold… so when the ice is in, it’s time to climb!
After an hour of hiking and sharing stories from past adventures, we arrived at an idyllic, winter Blue Ridge scene. A small stream flowing west off the ridge, over a hard band of rock, creating a waterfall in a compact gorge. The amphitheater of rock wrapped around the frozen falls, encasing the ice with vertical rock and a snow covered scree field. While approaching the base of the falls, we could still hear the roar of water cascading in the stream bed. The creek was not completely frozen over, and you could actually still see water flowing behind the ice curtain in places close to where these climbers were about to sink in their axes. However, the selection of ice was pretty wide compared to the small flow of water concentrated to the middle of the falls. There were a number of solid lines the climbers could choose for their ascent. Each line was an expression of creativity for how they viewed the ice wall and how they wanted to climb it. This team was experienced and made the event look easy as they swung their ice axes into the wall and dug in the spikes on their boots. The camaraderie amongst the group was encouraging. Down deep in the shadows of the gorge walls, light never entered the rock and ice chasm where they climbed. It was cold, but the cold was celebrated. The novelty of climbing ice in this region evokes a feeling of happiness that was embraced while keeping us warm throughout the day. As each climber took their last climb, I could tell the crew was satisfied with the conditions that played out. On the drive home, I thought ambitiously about if and where we could climb ice next. Maybe our humble Appalachian Mountains are better for ice climbing than I originally thought?
Winter climbing is quite addicting and vastly different from any other outdoor activity I have taken part of. To witness the blue ice of a frozen waterfall, and hear the sounds of ice axes and spikes clinging as they grip the ice is very unique. The sensory experience alone is compelling enough to want to learn and find more. Upon returning home, I immediately pulled out a map and scanned it intently to find tight topographic lines, being crossed perpendicularly by small cascades rushing downhill. There is an abundance of small streams concentrated on the steep slopes of these mountains, many of which have plenty of water for freezing when the conditions are just right. While the more popular waterfalls in the region are obvious destinations to gravitate towards, my mind was drawn to the adventure of finding a new destination, unknown- a first ascent. I thought about the many water-soaked cliffs I’ve explored while on trail runs and bike rides that are not even mentioned on the map. What about the many ribbons of rock hidden in the thick canopies of the forests? Many of these cliff bands have springs seeping over and off of them, only to at some point freeze over. There must be an untapped number of possibilities when conditions are right… However, conditions are rarely right here in Virginia, making exploring new ascents difficult in our neck of the Blue Ridge. With that said, finding one and actually climbing it would be an amazing frozen east coast experience!
After my first ice climbing experience, I felt inspired by its endless potential and connected to others who are pushing the limits within their own sports. When the Arctic air hovers in our region, I will be curious about where the icefalls will form, and what beautiful and challenging features will be present to navigate.
